A new column by Vivanda Felice and Pipa Benoit, MoCo foodies dedicated to supporting and highlighting local food spirit and culture

Ruth Reichl, American chef and food writer, once said, “American food is the food of immigrants. You go back a couple of hundred years, and we were all immigrants, unless we’re going to talk about Native American cuisine.” I had this in mind when, new to Waterloo, my family and I walked around town and peeked at menus. The arancini and lasagna at Frederico’s spoke of Italian roots. Ditto the wood-fired pizzas at Pie Hard. The house made smoked sausages at Shorty’s Smokehouse belied the town’s German heritage. Even the bread pudding offerings at the former Gallagher’s and JV’s restaurants showcased the influence of English fare in local Waterloo culture. I spotted Ja Bowl and China King — Chinese food was part of the food scene, too.

The familiar local phrase “who are you from home,” made me think about, what do we eat – from home? When we first moved here, several local tradesmen helped us with minor home repairs. In becoming acquainted, we also shared memories about food from home. I learned about their families cultural and food heritage. There were the gołąbki (stuffed cabbage leaves) and zupa ogórkowa (sour cucumber soup) of the plumber’s Polish grandparents. The electrician who came to repair the outdoor lights described the German schnitzel and dunkel (dark) beers of his grandfather. The delicious truth is that Waterloo, like other places across the US, is a town of immigrants. We proudly offer a variety of dishes — in our restaurants and homes — that came from somewhere else. 

Sitting at the bar at Stubborn German, the general conversation turned to food. “What’s Monroe County cuisine?” I asked. My new acquaintances responded enthusiastically with recommendations of pad thai from Thai House, the Mazatlan shrimp tacos from Casa Romero, and fried chicken from Crazy Train and Mr. BBQ – all told, immigrant food. Yes, even fried chicken, which originated in West Africa and Scotland. 

I considered the evolution of the regional immigrant food traditions. The agricultural enterprises of the early eighteenth century French immigrants, supplying shiploads of grain and vegetables to feed settlements downstream, are still strong in our county. Naturally, the region’s prosperity and abundance attracted the interest and industry of others. Like the strands of a braid, new foods, flavors and cuisines, have been woven into our culinary traditions. While the original structure remains, the new elements create a stronger cord, with a more vibrant pattern. 

Today we continue those agricultural traditions through supporting our farmers markets. But locals will tell you that even the market has evolved. Neighbors can purchase the plants, produce and proteins of the local farms, but they can also find flavors of another continent. As you approach Seni’s Sweet Cakes at the farmers market, the sugary scent of caramel entices. Columbia residents Seni Said and her daughter Hyuliya Aferol, generously offer samples of their European honey cake. I had a bite and promptly scooped up a slice. The gorgeous honey cake was a stunner featuring ten layers of cake and cream. Light as air with a delicious caramel-like creamy honey filling, it tasted like summer. I also tried the spinach feta and potato feta borek, savory pastries with a luscious filling wrapped in crispy phyllo dough. We highly recommend Seni’s Sweet Cakes, which specialize in high quality, unique treats made with wholesome ingredients like pasture raised eggs, unbleached flour, organic sugar, and olive oil. They also offer a selection of gluten-free, dairy-free, and vegan healthy baked goods naturally sweetened with organic coconut. 

Seni was a baker and co-owned a restaurant in her native Bulgaria for years prior to moving to the United States when she was in her late 50s. She learned English, got her driver’s license, became a US citizen, and opened Seni’s Sweet Cakes in fulfillment of her American dream. Her daughter Hyuliya, the business end of Seni’s Sweet Cakes, is a fitness instructor at the YMCA in Columbia and a healthcare executive. Hyuliya’s passions for fitness and health met Seni’s delicious baked goods to offer healthy and luscious, beautiful treats from a Bulgarian heritage with multicultural Eastern European influences. What an honor it is for us in Monroe County to be able to add Bulgarian food culture to our mix. I’m betting that when I sit at the bar at the Stubborn German and ask once again, “What’s Monroe County cuisine?” — someone’s bound to tell me about Seni’s Sweet Cakes.

Though the community has embraced Seni and Hyuliya, not all immigrants receive such a warm welcome about their food traditions. When we first moved here, an acquaintance provided a reputational summary of the local restaurants. In jest, she recommended Ja Bowl because she was “pretty sure” their chicken wasn’t actually dog meat, perhaps unaware of the harmfulness of the racial stereotype. This comment resurfaced for me during the presidential debates when former president Trump repeated the baseless claim that Haitians in Springfield, Ohio were eating their neighbors’ dogs and cats. Following his remarks, threats toward Haitian immigrants and others forced closings, evacuations and lockdowns at hospitals, schools, courts and government offices. Dehumanizing language like this causes real and devastating consequences for the immigrant community and our society.

I was gobsmacked to hear about a neighbor’s recent experience at Casa Romero. Patrons at a nearby table spewed denigrating language about immigrants in clear earshot of a Casa Romero server, who was an immigrant herself. My neighbor was hoping the server failed to hear the insults, but it was clear from her reaction that the message of intolerance and unwelcome was keenly received. My neighbor was utterly embarrassed about the diners’ behavior, but also perplexed by their patronage. She couldn’t reconcile how one could support an immigrant and ridicule her in the same setting. 

But sadly, my neighbor’s observation is not unique. We all have examples of how we, and those we love, have unwittingly allowed our bias to manifest as prejudice. How do we personally dismantle that prejudice, within ourselves and our community? We can start by breaking bread together. Sharing a meal helps us appreciate the culture and traditions of the host, but it also helps us to connect with each other on a personal level. We can see each other as individuals with unique backgrounds, experiences and skills, rather than as members of a monolithic group. Coming together over food and drink is a recipe for empathy, understanding, and healing.

To the chefs, the home cooks, and the farmers of Monroe County who are sharing food traditions from your country of origin – thank you. Your contributions to the local menu add to the abundance of our community table. Your willingness to serve us, even with our individual bias and prejudice, is a testament to your culture and heritage. We hope more immigrants will add their strand to the braid. Whoever you are from home, whatever you eat from home, you are welcome here.

Seni and Hyuliya generously offered up a stovetop version of their traditional recipe for печена тиква (baked pumpkin with honey and walnuts) in celebration of their Bulgarian culture.

Stovetop Pumpkin with Honey and Walnuts

Ingredients:

⁃About a quarter pumpkin (peeled and cubed – Monroe County Farmers Market)

⁃Pinch of salt

⁃1 tablespoon olive oil

⁃Honey (as much as you desire)

⁃Walnuts (as much as you desire)

How to Prepare:

Stir pumpkin, olive oil, salt and about two tablespoons of water in a non-stick pot and cook on low to medium heat until pumpkin is soft and water has evaporated. The pumpkin will release liquid as it cooks so don’t add too much water. Insert a fork in the pumpkin to check and if soft, pumpkin should be done. To serve, top with honey and walnuts.